Keep the output low
This is one place where less is more. A high-output strip at floor level glares off tile, while a low-brightness strip gives the soft, grazing wash you actually want. One suitable option for a gentle, low-output accent is the LEDClub 24V COB 200 Series low brightness strip. Check its lumens per foot, watts per foot, and color temperature on the product page (verify before you rely on them), and lean toward a warm white for a low-key look.
A quick tip: put the toe-kick run on a dimmer so you can pull it right down for evening ambiance. Confirm dimming compatibility across the strip, driver, and control before you promise smooth, flicker-free dimming.
Hide the strip inside the recess
Placement is what separates a custom-looking result from a visible strip of tape. Mount the strip up under the lip of the toe kick, aimed down and out toward the floor, so the recess itself shields the source from view. You want to see a glow on the floor with no bright line peeking out. Test the aim with the strip loosely held in place before you commit any adhesive, because a few degrees changes how much of the source you can see from across the room.
An aluminum channel is worth considering even here. It gives a straight mounting surface, its diffuser softens the line, and the aluminum helps dissipate the heat the strip produces. LED strips do generate heat in use, so a channel helps manage it while protecting the tape from the occasional kick or mop. A channel reduces but does not guarantee removal of visible dots; the result also depends on LED density, channel depth, and diffuser.
Mind moisture, mopping, and IP rating at floor level
The floor of a kitchen gets wet. Mopping, spills, and the odd overflowing dishwasher all put water right where a toe-kick strip lives, so water resistance deserves real thought. Be precise about IP ratings instead of relying on a vague idea of "waterproof." A rating such as IP65 addresses splashing and low-pressure water, while a higher rating such as IP67 addresses heavier wet exposure. Which one you need depends on how wet your floor gets, how the ends and connections are sealed, where the driver sits, and your install method. The whole system has to suit the location, not just the strip, so treat the end seals, connectors, and driver enclosure as part of the decision. Check the exact IP rating on the product page before you rely on it, and mount the strip high enough in the recess that standing water is unlikely to reach it.
Power, driver placement, and safety
A 24V strip needs a 24V driver, matched exactly, never crossed with a 12V supply. Size it from the strip's watts per foot times your total run, add current headroom of at least 20 percent (verify), and if you light several cabinet bays, wire the constant-voltage runs in parallel, not series, within the driver's total capacity.
Tuck the driver in an adjacent cabinet or a dry wall cavity, well away from the wet floor, and route the low-voltage leads up out of the splash zone. Any hardwired driver connection, junction box, or wall dimmer at line voltage should be handled by a qualified electrician where local code requires it, so follow the product instructions and your local code and NEC where it applies.
