Fence line runs and the length problem
A fence run is a different animal. It is longer, often much longer, and it usually follows a boundary that is not straight. Under the cap rail is the position that works: the tape faces down, the cap hides it from both sides, and the light lands on the boards and the planting at the base.
Length is where fence projects go wrong. A boundary of eighty or a hundred feet is not one continuous strip. Every product has a published maximum run length from a single feed, and exceeding it produces a run that fades toward the far end. Read that figure for your strip (verify it before you rely on it), then split the boundary into sections fed centrally or with power injected at intervals. Our explainer on voltage drop in LED strips sets out why the fade happens, so plan feed points before you order cable.
Match voltage exactly, 24V strip to a 24V driver, and wire the sections in parallel back to the driver rather than end to end. Size that driver from watts per foot times installed feet plus at least 20 percent current headroom (verify the current guidance).
Exposure, sealing, and putting a driver outdoors
A wall run sits at ground level where it takes rain, sprinkler spray, and splashback off paving, and a fence cap run takes driven rain from both sides. Look for IP67, rated against temporary immersion, and confirm the stated location suitability of the exact product rather than trusting a general outdoor description. One suitable option is the EnoLED 24V Glow67 Series IP67 wet location strip; check its IP rating, location suitability, lumens per foot, watts per foot, and cut-end sealing method (verify these before you rely on them), then compare it with the outdoor range.
Sealing has to run all the way through. A boundary split into sections has multiple feed points, and each cut end, connector, and strip-to-wire transition needs sealing to the standard the manufacturer specifies. Keep joints out of the splash zone at the base of the wall where the layout allows.
The driver is the piece people improvise, and the piece that fails. It needs an enclosure rating and permitted location suiting where it will live: off the ground, shaded, ventilated, reachable for service. Strips and drivers generate heat in normal use, so a sealed box in full afternoon sun is the wrong home. An aluminum channel helps dissipate heat and protects the tape from garden tools; it is not mandatory, and it reduces but does not guarantee the removal of visible dots, since that also depends on LED density, channel depth, and the diffuser.
The supply itself is line-voltage work. Bring in a licensed electrician for buried cable, exterior receptacles, outdoor junction boxes, and any hardwired driver, following the manufacturer instructions, your local code, and the NEC where it applies.
Color, spill, and the neighbors
Warm white flatters stone and planting; cooler white makes render look clinical after dark. For a boundary that changes with the season, a color and tunable white product such as the EnoLED 24V UniColor RGB and tunable white COB strip covers both; confirm its color range, output, and required controller type first (verify these before you rely on them).
Keep the light on your side of the fence. Aiming down under a cap rail and keeping output modest holds spill off a neighbor's windows, and it looks better anyway: a boundary should be a low, quiet line.
