Getting the IP rating exactly right
An IP rating has two digits and the second one describes water. An IP65 product is rated against water jets. An IP67 product is rated against temporary immersion. For a pool or spa surround that takes direct splash, standing rain, or hose-down cleaning, IP67 is the rating to look for, not something lower. For a fully sheltered, ventilated position that never sees direct water, a lower rating may be listed as suitable, but read the manufacturer's stated location suitability instead of assuming.
One suitable option for an exposed wet-location surround run is the EnoLED 24V Glow67 Series IP67 strip; check its stated IP rating, location suitability, lumens per foot, watts per foot, and its cutting and sealing instructions on the product page (verify these before you rely on them). Read the rest of the outdoor lighting collection the same way, and our explainer on IP20, IP65 and IP67 strips sets out what each digit actually covers.
The rating has to cover the whole system
A rated strip on the end of an unrated connection is an unrated install. Every joint, cut end, solder point, and strip-to-wire transition needs sealing to the same standard as the tape, using the seal kits and methods the manufacturer specifies for that product. Cutting a sealed strip opens the seal, so plan your cut points, re-seal them properly, and keep field joints to the minimum the layout allows.
The driver is the other half of the question. Drivers carry their own enclosure ratings and permitted locations. A unit listed for dry or damp locations does not belong in a poolside cabinet that collects water, and even a suitably rated driver wants a spot that is protected, ventilated, and able to drain. Confirm both on the driver page, and treat the strip, the connections, the end seals, and the driver as one system that has to suit the same environment. Strips and drivers also generate heat in normal use, so give both somewhere to shed it rather than burying them in a sealed pocket. An aluminum profile helps dissipate that heat and shields the tape from deck furniture and foot traffic. It is not mandatory, and it reduces but does not guarantee the removal of visible dots, since that depends on LED density, channel depth, and the diffuser as well.
Wiring outdoors near water
On the low-voltage side, keep it simple: match voltage exactly, 24V strip to a 24V driver, wire each run in parallel back to the driver rather than in series, and size that driver from watts per foot times installed feet plus at least 20 percent current headroom (verify the current guidance). Route cable so it sheds water, and leave a drip loop before every entry point.
Everything on the line-voltage side, along with any hardwired driver, junction box, outdoor receptacle, or circuit protection, is work for a licensed electrician following the manufacturer instructions, your local code, and the NEC where applicable. Pool and spa areas also carry their own code requirements covering matters such as bonding, clearances, and protection, and those vary by jurisdiction.
Aiming, glare, and the reflection off the water
Water reflects, so glare control is the real design problem. Aim runs down and away from the surface, or tuck them behind a coping lip or step nose so only the wash shows. A strip facing the pool at eye level paints a bright line across the water and into every photograph. Under-coping is the dependable position: it grazes the deck, makes the pool edge easy to pick out after dark, and leaves the water mirror-like.
Warm color temperatures usually flatter a pool surround, and consistency matters more than the exact number: keep coping, steps, and spa skirt on one nominal color temperature.
