Track A, step one: survey and measure the desk
Sit in the chair before touching a tape. Mark where the monitor stands and how low the nearest overhang sits, because those two positions decide whether a run shows up in the screen. Then measure the desk's clear width, the height of the surface above it, and the depth from the wall to the front edge the strip hides behind.
Settle the driver location and the cable route in the same sitting, before either track is specified. Both tracks return to one supply, so choose the bay that holds it, check it stays reachable once the desk is loaded, and pencil the path each pair of conductors takes back.
Track A, step two: spec, prep and mount the desk run
A work surface wants real output. One option, with watts per foot, tape width, CRI, lumens per foot and cut interval read off the listing, is the UniPlus high output tape. Many strips can be cut at designated points and reconnected with compatible connectors or by soldering, depending on the product; land the run on the published interval before cutting.
Clean and degrease the mounting surface, dry fit the strip in its channel with nothing stuck down, and check from the chair that the monitor shows no reflection. Mount only then, as close to the front edge of the overhang as the reveal allows, so light reaches the page instead of stopping at the backs of your hands.
Track B, step one: survey the shelves above
Measure each shelf separately. Internal width varies once a shelf is scribed to a wall, so a run cut to a plan dimension will be short somewhere. Note the depth too: a deep shelf lit from the front edge leaves the back wall dark.
Track B, step two: spec, prep and mount the shelf runs
Shelf runs are accent, not task, so lower output usually reads better and keeps the tracks from competing. A profile from the aluminum profile selection helps dissipate heat the strip gives off in use and reduces, but does not guarantee that visible dots vanish. Whether they show depends on the density of the LEDs, how deep the profile is, and which diffuser sits over them. It is never mandatory.
Prep each shelf underside as you did the desk: clean, degrease, dry fit, look from the chair, then mount. Adhesive performance differs by product and surface, so follow the manufacturer instruction.
Where the tracks meet: one driver, parallel legs, one control
With both track lengths fixed, size the driver from the supplies that can carry both tracks on total installed feet at the stated watts per foot, then no less than 20 percent current headroom, both verified.
Every leg returns to the driver in parallel, never chained one shelf into the next, and a connector such as this solderless connector with a 72 inch tail keeps those returns tidy. The tape, the supply and the control all carry the same voltage marking, and on this build that is 24V at each. Separate levels for the two tracks take two channels; options sit in the LED controllers collection.
Before ordering, check that the control is published as compatible with the exact strip and driver you have chosen. Take that from what each maker states for those devices; three products all sold as dimmable is not evidence they work together.
Power happens last, and it has a hard edge. Kill the breaker feeding the room before any connection is made. A hardwired driver, a junction box, in-wall cable and a switch or dimmer box at the wall are a licensed electrician's work, carried out to the manufacturer instructions, to local electrical code as it stands where you are, and to the NEC where it applies. Never test or probe a live line voltage connection. Low voltage guidance is not permission to work on the 120V side.
