Keep the output low and the runs short
Inside a cabinet you are lighting a small volume from close range, so a low-brightness strip is usually right. Too much output in a confined interior is harsh and wasteful. One suitable option for a low-output indoor run is the LEDClub 24V COB 200 Series low brightness strip. Confirm its lumens per foot, watts per foot, color temperature, and cut interval on the product page (verify before you rely on them), and plan each run to land on a cut point so the piece fits the shelf or drawer cleanly.
A practical tip: measure to the nearest cut mark before you trim, since cutting a strip a mark too short means splicing in a piece or starting the run over.
Motion and door sensors are optional, and product-dependent
The nice touch with cabinet lighting is having it switch on automatically. A door sensor triggers the light when the door opens, and a motion sensor triggers on movement, so a cupboard lights only while you are in it. This is genuinely useful, but do not assume any strip supports it. Sensor and automatic-switching capability depends on the specific control gear and how it is wired, so verify that the product and control you choose actually support door or motion switching before you rely on it. Where it is not supported or not wanted, a simple manual switch works fine.
Keep control methods separate. Do not combine an incompatible low-voltage controller and a line-voltage wall dimmer on the same circuit unless the system documentation explicitly permits it.
Mounting, heat, and a clean finish
Mount the strip where the door or drawer front hides it and where it aims at the contents, typically along the inside front lip or the underside of a shelf. A small aluminum channel is optional, but it gives a straight mounting line, its diffuser evens out the light, and the aluminum helps dissipate the heat the strip produces. LED strips do generate heat in use, so giving the strip a little room to shed heat in a tight, enclosed cabinet is sensible. A channel reduces but does not guarantee removal of visible dots.
Powering multiple cabinets from one supply
Most kitchens have several cabinets to light, and the tidy way to handle that is one driver feeding multiple short runs. A 24V strip needs a 24V driver, matched exactly, never crossed with a 12V supply. Add up the watts per foot times the total installed length across all the cabinets, add current headroom of at least 20 percent (verify), and choose a driver with enough capacity for the whole set.
Wire the constant-voltage runs in parallel, not in series, so each cabinet gets full voltage and one run does not dim the next. Solderless connectors and lead wires make it easy to branch power to each cabinet without soldering, and you can size options in the LED connectors and wires collection. Match any connector to the strip's width and pad layout, and confirm compatibility before ordering, since fit varies by strip. Hide the driver in an adjacent cabinet or cavity, and route the low-voltage leads through small holes in the cabinet backs so the wiring disappears. Any hardwired connection, junction box, or wall dimmer at line voltage is work for a qualified electrician where local code requires it, so follow the product instructions and your local code and NEC where it applies.
