Stage two: decide the spec before you order anything
Four decisions close here. Voltage first: choose the strip, then match the chain to it, so a 24V strip runs on a 24V driver and a 24V controller. Output level second, judged against the counter finish. Color temperature third. Control fourth, since a dimmed run and a switched run call for different drivers and the driver is not easy to swap later.
For a medium-output line under wall cabinets, one suitable choice is LEDClub's 24V COB 300 Series. Its watts per foot, lumens per foot, CRI, color temperatures and stated cut interval all sit on the product page. The fixed-white range sits in the static white LED strip collection.
Stage three: build the parts list for the under-cabinet lighting build
Add the run lengths from stage one and order that footage with a margin for mistakes. Then one channel length per run, end caps and lens, connectors or wire tails, low-voltage cable, and the control device.
Size the driver last, once the footage is fixed. Multiply watts per foot by total installed feet, then allow headroom on the current draw. LED Club puts that at 20 percent or more, a figure worth checking first. The arithmetic behind supply sizing is set out separately, and the driver listings come after that number exists, not before.
Stage four: prepare the underside of each cabinet
Cabinet undersides collect a film of cooking grease that nothing sticks to. Clean and dry each one following the mounting instructions on the product page, since what a given adhesive or fixing needs is specific to that product. Then dry-fit, marking the fixing points with the doors open and closed so nothing lands where a hinge swings. Surface preparation for LED strip covers it.
Stage five: mount the channel and set the strip
Cut each channel to length and fix it as its instructions require. For a shallow underside the EnoLED low profile surface mount channel is one suitable option; check its internal width against your strip first. A channel helps dissipate heat and finishes the edge. Nothing makes it mandatory here, and it reduces but does not guarantee the appearance of visible dots, since LED density, channel depth and the lens all have a say.
Many strips can be cut at their designated points and rejoined with a compatible connector or by soldering, depending on the product. Make sure yours supports the method before anything is trimmed. Set each length into its channel, press it home, then fit the lens and end caps.
Stage six: wire back to the driver, then hand off the line voltage
Every run gets its own pair of conductors back to the driver, wired in parallel, never one run feeding the next in series. Keep polarity consistent and one voltage from strip to driver.
Now the boundary. Everything from the driver's input terminals back toward the panel is line-voltage work for a licensed electrician, carried out under local electrical code, the NEC where applicable, and whatever the manufacturer instructions require: hardwired drivers, junction boxes, cable inside a wall, and any switch or dimmer box. Kill the breaker before a connection is opened, and never put a tester on a live line-voltage connection. Comfort with 24V wiring under a cabinet qualifies nobody for the 120V side of the same job.
Give the driver air. Leave the clearance its instructions specify and keep the unit reachable rather than sealed into a cabinet void, since LEDs and drivers generate heat in normal use.
