Option 1: a corner connector
A corner connector is a small solderless piece that holds two strip ends at 90 degrees, so the light continues around an inside or outside corner with no visible wire. It is the tidiest option for a standard right angle and seats onto the copper pads like a straight connector.
The catch is fit. Corner connectors are sized for a specific strip width, pad layout, and conductor count, so the part has to match your strip exactly (verify before you rely on it). Browse the current options in the LED connectors and wires collection, and confirm a right-angle corner piece is in stock and compatible with your strip before you plan around it, since a matching corner connector may not always be available.
Option 2: a cut-and-wire jump
When a corner connector will not fit, or the angle is not a clean 90 degrees, cut the strip on its marked cut point and bridge the corner with a short length of wire. The wire can turn any angle and cover any small gap, which suits corners where the two runs sit apart or a rigid connector cannot reach.
For the jump you want a solderless strip-to-wire connection at each cut end. The LEDClub Solderless Strip Wire Connector Adapter makes a clean transition at the corner, and where the run also reaches back to a driver, the LEDClub Solderless Strip-to-Wire Connector with a 72 inch lead carries power over a longer distance. Cut only on the printed marks so the pads stay intact, and match the connector to the strip width and pad layout (verify on the product page before you rely on it).
Option 3: bending the strip
Some strips are made to flex and can round a corner without a cut if the turn is gentle enough. The limit is the bend radius: force a strip past its rating and you risk cracking the circuit or the emitters. Whether a strip bends sideways, and how tight a radius it tolerates, depends on the product, so check its specifications first (verify the minimum bend radius on the product page before you rely on it). For a sharp 90-degree corner, a connector or a wire jump is usually cleaner than forcing a bend.
Choosing the right method for your corner
A quick way to decide: for a standard right angle with a matching connector in stock, the corner connector is neatest. For an odd angle, a wide gap, or no compatible connector, cut and jump with a wire. For a strip rated to flex and a gentle turn, bending saves a join. Measure the corner and check your strip's specs first.
An installer tip: dry-fit the corner before you peel adhesive or seat a connector. Confirm the light lines up around the turn, then make the join. Reworking a corner after the strip is stuck down is far more work.
Wiring, polarity, and power
However you turn the corner, keep polarity consistent, positive to positive and negative to negative. A reversed corner shows up as a dead leg past the turn, or a mismatched color on a multi-channel strip. When a layout branches, wire constant-voltage strips in parallel back to the driver rather than in series, and stay within the driver's rated capacity. Match the supply voltage too: a 24V strip needs a 24V supply, a 12V strip needs a 12V supply, and you never cross them.
Electrical safety
Turning a corner is low-voltage work at the strip. The supply side is not. Follow the strip and driver instructions, and leave hardwired driver connections, junction boxes, wall dimmers, and any line-voltage work to a qualified electrician where local code requires it.
