Doing it: positions above the rods and behind the shelf fronts
Mount the strip on the underside of the shelf above each rod, set back behind the front edge and aimed down the face of the clothes. That setback is the whole trick: push it to the back wall and you light the wall beautifully while the garments hang in their own shadow.
Shelf runs follow the same rule: one strip under each shelf on a consistent setback, so they line up from the doorway. Drawers take a short run under the front lip. The range for this space sits in the closet collection.
Decision two: output and color for the closet and wardrobe lighting build
Enough output to read fabric, not so much that stepping in is uncomfortable. A small, light-colored box takes far less per foot than an open room.
Color rendering matters more here than in most rooms, because telling navy from black is the job. Read the CRI figure on the product page rather than assuming it. The EnoLED 24V UniBasic COB strip is one medium-output option; confirm its watts per foot, CRI, color temperatures and cut interval there.
Doing it: cutting, channel and setting the strip
Measure every rod and shelf run separately, then order the total with a margin. Settle the driver position and cable route before the first length goes up: that position is decision four below, and a fixed run cannot be re-routed to reach it.
The driver follows from the same tape measure. Add the rod runs, the shelf runs and the drawer runs into one figure, multiply that by the watts per foot shown for your strip, and specify a unit whose rated output clears the answer by 20 percent or more. Both the watts per foot and the rated output want checking on the product pages before the order goes in.
Clean and dry each mounting face the way your strip's instructions require, because products differ here. Many strips can be cut at their designated points and rejoined with a compatible connector or by soldering, depending on the product. A channel under a shelf helps dissipate heat, keeps the run straight and hides the diodes from below. Nothing makes it mandatory, and it reduces but does not guarantee how visible the dots are, because density, channel depth and the diffuser all feed into that.
Decision three: how the light is switched
Three options cover almost every closet: a low-voltage door trigger, a manual switch, or a controller holding a set level. A walk-in usually wants the door trigger; nobody reaches for a switch with an armful of laundry.
Whichever you pick, pick one. Keep a phase-cut wall dimmer off any circuit carrying a smart low-voltage controller unless their documentation states otherwise. Before a trigger, switch or controller is bought, check that its maker lists your strip and driver as supported; a dimmable label on all three is a description, not a compatibility statement.
Doing it: wiring the low-voltage side back to one driver
Every run returns to the driver on its own pair of conductors, in parallel, never chained off the run before it. Hold one voltage across the whole chain, so a 24V strip sees a 24V driver and controller.
The low-voltage side is yours. The moment a cable enters a wall box or ties into a house circuit, the work is for a licensed electrician, following local electrical code, the NEC where relevant, plus the manufacturer instructions. Hardwired drivers, junction boxes, cable buried in a wall, line-voltage door switches and any switch or dimmer box sit on that side of the line. The breaker comes off before any of it is opened, and a live line-voltage connection is never probed or tested. Comfort with low-voltage wiring is not permission to take on the 120V side.
Decision four: where the driver sits and how it breathes
Not under a stack of folded sweaters, and not sealed into a closed cabinet void. LEDs and drivers generate heat in normal use, and a closet interior is enclosed and still. Give the driver the clearance its instructions specify, keep air around it, and leave it reachable. Heat inside enclosed installations covers what changes in a confined space.
