Color rendering through the pane
Glass, any film, and the tint of a curved front all take something off the color before it reaches the eye, so the color rendering index matters more here than on an open rack. Read the published CRI figure on the product page and verify it before you rely on it, since rendering belongs to the specific product rather than to a format.
Color temperature is an appearance choice. Warmer white in the 2700K to 3000K band tends to flatter breads and pastry, while neutral white nearer 3500K to 4000K keeps packaged goods looking crisp. One suitable option for a medium output line inside a standard depth case is the LEDClub 24V COB 300 Series; confirm CRI, lumens per foot, watts per foot, voltage, cut interval, and IP rating on the page (verify these before you rely on them). Deeper cases need more output, so compare specifications across the LED strip light collection.
An even line across trays and tiers
Patchy light shows immediately, because the eye compares two trays side by side in one frame. Run a continuous line the full width under the header, and give each tier its own run rather than hoping the top light reaches the bottom shelf. Where a case is glazed on three sides, carry the run around the corners with compatible connectors or a soldered joint, depending on what the product allows, since cut interval and joining method vary per product. Keep every case on the same nominal color temperature.
Heat inside a closed case
Strips produce heat in use, and a case is the one place that heat has nowhere convenient to go. Airflow is restricted by design, so the mounting surface does most of the work. Fixing the tape to an aluminum channel or a metal rail rather than thin plastic trim gives that warmth a path away from the emitters. A channel helps dissipate heat and protects the tape from a tray corner, but it is never mandatory, and it reduces without guaranteeing the removal of visible dots, which also depend on LED density, channel depth, and diffuser. Housing options sit in the channels and profiles collection.
Cleaning, splash, and exact IP ratings
Never take "waterproof" as a specification. Work from the exact IP figure printed on the page for the product you are buying. An IP20 rated product has no moisture protection and belongs only in a dry, sheltered header. An IP65 rated product is built to resist water jets from any direction. An IP67 rated product tolerates temporary immersion. Confirm the rating for the exact item before you rely on it.
The tape rating is not the whole system. Connectors, end seals, the driver, and its enclosure all have to suit the same conditions. Keep drivers outside the case in a dry, ventilated position, and let local code have the final word.
Power, dimming, and the electrical side
Total the installed feet across every case before sizing anything. Driver capacity comes from watts per foot times installed length plus at least 20 percent current headroom (verify the current guidance). Voltage matches exactly, 24V tape to a 24V driver, and runs wire in parallel back to the driver rather than chaining one case off the end of another.
If the counter dims for evening trade, verify strip, driver, controller, and any wall control together, including minimum and maximum load, and keep methods separate, since a low voltage controller and a phase cut wall dimmer should not share a circuit unless the documentation permits. Hardwired drivers, junction boxes, and wall controls are work for a licensed electrician following the manufacturer instructions, local code, and the NEC where applicable.
