Reveal depth, settled before the frame is glued
A shallow reveal makes a tight, bright line close to the panel edge; a deeper one spreads a wider, softer wash up the wall. Neither is correct by default.
Settle the depth, then build the frame to it, because once the rails are glued and the face is fixed the reveal is fixed too. Give the strip room to sit fully behind the panel edge at every sightline, including the low one from the mattress.
Output and color, fixed before the strip is ordered
The wall is doing the work here, so output belongs at the low to medium end. The EnoLED 24V UniBasic medium brightness series is one option; confirm its watts per foot, tape width, CRI, color temperature options and cut interval on the product page.
Match that color temperature to the lamps already in the room. Many strips can be cut at designated points and rejoined with compatible connectors or by soldering, depending on the product, meaning no length should be ordered on the assumption of a cut the tape does not offer.
Where the cable leaves the panel, decided before the face is closed
This is the step people get wrong. Route the cable exit before the face board or the covering goes on, because afterwards the only way in is through the front.
Put the exit low, on the side nearest the driver, and leave a longer tail than feels necessary. Secure it inside the frame so the weight of the panel never hangs on the connection. Where the strip sits against a covering or inside a closed frame, remember it makes heat in normal use: a channel from the aluminum profile and diffuser options helps dissipate it and gives the run a mechanical fixing, and it reduces but does not guarantee that visible dots vanish, an appearance LED density, channel depth and the diffuser all have a hand in. It is not mandatory.
Driver location and control, chosen before the bed goes back
Choose a driver position with air around it that a hand can still reach later: an adjacent closet, a base cabinet, the wall behind a nightstand. Sealed inside a fixed headboard is not that position.
Size it before you buy. Multiply the published watts per foot by the installed footage, then add current headroom of at least 20 percent, with the strip figure and the driver's rated output both verified first. Keep one voltage all the way, so 24V tape needs a 24V driver and controller, and two runs each return to the driver in parallel rather than chaining.
Before any wiring happens, the breaker for that room goes off. Where the panel is fed from a new outlet, in-wall cable, a junction box, a hardwired driver, or a switch or dimmer box at the wall, that work is line voltage and belongs with a licensed electrician who follows the NEC where it applies, the local electrical code, and the manufacturer instructions for each device. A live line voltage connection is never something to test, probe or open. Knowing your way around 24V tape does not make anyone qualified on the other side of the driver.
