Specifying and laying out the island overhang run
The strip goes on the underside of the overhang or on the panel face, set far enough back that nobody standing at the island sees the emitter. A straightedge sighted along the counter edge finds that setback.
Output belongs in the medium range here. The LEDClub 24V COB 300 Series medium brightness strip is one concealed-run option, with watts per foot, tape width, color temperatures and cut interval taken from the product page. Our note on warm white or neutral white in a kitchen covers matching the rest of the room.
Prepping and mounting under the overhang
Clean and degrease the panel and let it dry. How an adhesive behaves on a factory finish depends on the tape and the surface, so follow the instructions supplied with the product.
Many strips can be cut at designated points and rejoined with compatible connectors or by soldering, depending on the product, which makes the interval something to check before marking a length. A channel from the extruded channel options screws to the panel instead of relying on tape, helps dissipate the heat the strip generates while running, and reduces but does not guarantee visible dots disappearing, since LED density, profile depth and the diffuser all shape what shows.
Specifying the toe-kick run at floor level
The recess at floor level is shallow, enclosed and mopped. Specify by exact rating rather than by the word waterproof: the EnoLED 24V Glow67 wet location series lists an IP67 rating, which you should confirm on the product page. Suitability depends on the whole assembly, so connections, end seals, the driver enclosure and the mounting method have to suit floor level too, along with local code.
Dry, damp and wet are code classifications rather than descriptions, and which applies at floor level in your kitchen is the licensed electrician's call against the requirements in force locally.
Aim the strip down and slightly out, set back behind the kick board lip so the emitter stays hidden. That recess traps warm air around a strip that makes heat in normal use, so a channel earns its place there, though it is never mandatory.
Prepping the recess and fixing the toe-kick run
Vacuum the recess, degrease it, and let it dry. This is the dustiest surface in the kitchen.
The detail that separates a good toe-kick job from a frustrating one: fix the strip or channel to the cabinet base rail, not the removable kick board, which comes off for plumbing work and takes the strip with it. Leave slack at each corner instead of bending tape around an inside angle, and keep every join above the floor line.
One power plan for both runs
Both halves of a kitchen island and toe-kick lighting build come back to one supply. Take the published watts per foot for each strip, multiply by that run's installed footage, total the two, then add at least 20 percent current headroom before choosing from the range of LED drivers. Verify both figures on the product pages. Voltage matches through the chain: 24V strips, 24V driver, 24V controller.
Both runs return to the driver in parallel. Never wire the island into the toe-kick in series, because a constant voltage system splits its voltage across the sections.
Now stop. Kill the power at the breaker before a single connection is made. A hardwired driver in the island base, a junction box behind a cabinet back, cable pulled through a floor or run inside a wall, and the switch or dimmer box at the plate are all line voltage tasks for a licensed electrician following manufacturer instructions, local code and the NEC where applicable. Nobody should test or probe a line voltage connection that is still live. Being comfortable with 24V tape says nothing about being qualified for the line voltage side.
